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Chile is remarkably
similar to the West Coast of North America from Alaska to northern Mexico,
with the seasons, as well as geography, reversed. It is smaller than all
other South American countries save Ecuador, the Guianas, Paraguay and Uruguay.
Chile stretches between the Andes and Pacific for 2,672 miles but averages
just over 100 miles wide at any point. Chile is the only truly temperate
country in the Neotropics, and occupies more degrees of latitude than any
other nation worldwide. Perhaps it is not surprising that Chile offers several
extremes of the natural world. Fortunately, the Chilean economy seems much
stronger and modernized than other Neotropical countries, and most of it
is much easier to travel in.
Douglas & Alessandra San Pedro de Atacama, further south, is another oasis village. It serves
as the base for visiting the fantastic El Tatio Geyser Field, which at
14,000 feet is yet another of the country's natural extremes. The nearby
Salar de Atacama is a saline lake with an area of over 1,240 square miles,
and the Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon is full of canyons and
stunning rock formations. Cultural attractions of the region include the
fine Gustavo Le Paige Archeological Museum and the 12th century Indian
fortress Pukara de Quitor.
Given the vast change in altitudes and habitats, a visit to this region
will allow you to see far more bird species than you may have thought
possible, along with some very nice mammals. Still, it may be the scenery
and cultural interactions in the ancient indigenous cities that will stand
out in your mind the strongest. Even the flight over the Atacama, with
its ever-clear skies, will be an almost lunar experience. We recommend
six or seven days in the region to visit it properly.
One other thing of interest to birders is a pelagic trip from Chile's
largest seaport -- the Valparaíso harbor. Just 10 miles out we hit the
edge of the Humboldt current, and in the early morning the calm waters
are used by a variety of pelagic birds looking for a morning meal. We
could see birds ranging from Black-browed, Buller's and Salvin's Albatrosses
to a number of petrels, diving-petrels, storm-petrels, shearwaters, and
others. Closer to shore, we could find the Peruvian Booby, Peruvian Pelican,
Guanay and the unusual Red-legged Cormorants and a number of gulls and
terns. A boat trip here has the potential to be one of the most rewarding
pelagic experiences you'll ever have.
The Los Cipreses Reserve is near the lovely resort setting of Termes
de Cauquenes, with its popular hot water springs resort. The reserve is
the stronghold of the widely hunted Burrowing Parrot. This colorful and
interesting parrot actually digs deep into the ground for roosting and
nesting purposes. It differs from other New World parrots also with its
long, macaw-like tail and the fact that they are communal ground feeders
which prefer grass seed. It is this seed eating behavior that leads farmers
across Chile and Argentina to try to eliminate it, and it is increasingly
hard to see outside this reserve.
We recommend 4 to 5 days in the region before heading south.
The road from Villarica to Osorno and then east to Parque Nacional Puyehue
crosses forests, mountains and lakes. The park is one of the nicest in
South America. Ancient Andean Valdivian forest covers the mountains, and
an excellent trail system allows access. For those not up to hiking, the
International Highway provides access. We get into the range of the impressive
Magellenic Woodpecker, Torrent Duck and Chilean Pintail here, and all
three can be seen. At least four species of large tapaculos are found
in this park, along with a number of other great birds. We'll also look
for the endemic and very local Slender-billed Parakeet. Pudu, the world's
smallest deer, are also found here, but are quite elusive.
It seems that much of the Lake District is made of parks and reserves,
while much of the unprotected land is well preserved. Swiss and German
architecture are found in the delightful towns of Frutillar, Puerto Varas
and Puerto Montt. It is also in this region that one can take a fascinating
trip across the turquoise lakes past snow-capped volcanoes into Bariloche,
Argentina.
Puerto Montt, a port city reminiscent of the Pacific northwest, is the
region's capital. The city and nearby fishing port of Angelmó have
become a popular tourist center, with many seafood restaurants and an
interesting handicraft market. This is also the "end of the road" in the
sense that you can fly south to Punta Arenas from here, but even dirt
roads do not go more than a few hundred miles further south.
The Chiloé National Park is well worth a visit. Over 106,250
acres of protected land support extensive stands of the Alerce Pine, Fitzroya
cupressoides, the oldest and one of the tallest trees on the continent.
There is also an impressive stand of Teepee trees, Tepualia stimulais,
and a series of sand dunes leading to the coast. Nice hotels, a fair road
system and a series of forts and other historic buildings combine with
the exuberant nature to merit a stay of three or four days.
Much of the region between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales was accessible
only by boat until recently. The Carretera Austral, or Southern Highway,
now extends south from Puerto Monte just over 600 miles to Puerto Yungay.
It is still an area that is visited by few as to enter by land requires
taking your own fuel and reserving a space on ferries in advance. One
interesting way to see the region in passing is by booking on a freight
ship that also takes passengers from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales and
back. It passes through the extensive archipelago of snow-capped mountains,
glaciers and lush southern forests. Here's a good tip for those of you
who are considering this: Traveling south, your ship is taking vegetables
and fruit to Puerto Natales. On the return trip, you travel with smelly
sheep heading north.
Puerto Natales gives us access to the unbelievable Torres del Paine
National Park, truly one of the extremes of the natural world. Designated
as a World Biosphere Reserve, stark, craggy mountains, turquoise blue
lakes, waterfalls, enormous glaciers, forests and grasslands provide habitat
for Guanacos that do not run from man as they seem to everywhere else
the occur. One can also see Lesser (Darwin's) Rhea, Andean Condor, Ashy-headed
Goose and the powerful Magellenic Woodpecker, along with over 20 species
of ducks. Torres del Paine is often the favorite stop on any tour.
The Bernardo O'Higgins National Park is the largest of the Chilean parks,
with over 2,470,000 acres. It is largely inaccessible, but can be visited
by ship on a breath-taking cruise from Puerto Natales. Sailing in an area
where frigid waterfalls plunge into the sea, we'll reach the Balmaceda
and Serrano glaciers with icebergs, Southern Sea Lions, Andean Condors
and Black-necked Swans making up the backdrop. It makes for quite an exhilarating
day.
Punta Arenas in the southernmost part of continental Chile, is a good
base for visiting several different habitats. One can fly into this city
and drive north to Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, but we usually
include a few days in the Punta Arenas region to visit the Magellenic
Penguin colony at Seno Otway, among other places. The Southern "False"
Beech (Nothofagus spp.) forests of the nearby Laguna Parrillar National
Park are only found in the world's most southern regions, including Tasmania,
New Zealand, New Caledonia and New Guinea. There is not a lot of animal
life here, but while the quantity is low, the quality is high. We may
see the fascinating Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Patagonian Sierra-Finch and
possibly a Rufous-legged Owl.
Of particular interest to the birder will be a few days spent across
the Straights of Magellan on Isla Grande - Tierra del Fuego. While many
coastal and steppe birds can be seen, of special interest are the Austral
Canestero, the nomadic Snowy Sheathbill, the rare and localized Magellenic
Plover, Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant and the extremely rare Black-throated
Finch. Time spent in Tierra del Fuego may be the high point of a birder's
Chilean trip.
CHILE is an extremely beautiful country packed between the mountains
and ocean its entire length, and we have not exhausted its places of interest
here. We can offer tours to any of these areas, and can combine several
to create a longer itinerary. In addition to our guided tours, we are
happy to help you design a "do-it-yourself" itinerary that meets your
own needs. We want your experience in Chile and with Focus Tours to make
you very, very happy.
TOUR LEADER: Eduardo Falcão, Fabricio Dorelio or Douglas Trent...to be determined.
The
Atacama Desert in the North is one of the driest and hottest places on
earth. There is no other place on the continent, and only one other place
worldwide, where you can experience a region with no life forms whatsoever.
Ancient mummies are well preserved, as there is so little moisture to
cause decay. The Andes outside Santiago offer dramatic scenery and the
world speed record for skiing was set in the mountains of Portillo northwest
of the city. The spectacular Torres del Paine National Park in the South
hosts one of the most dramatic combinations of mountains, blue water and
glaciers in the world. A large portion of the southern region beyond Puerto
Montt has no roads, but the fiords can be visited by ship. North of Puerto
Montt are incredible forests, including temperate rainforests.
We offer our services in all of the areas mentioned above and more. Our
naturalist guides are equipped with a spotting telescope for seeing distant
animals and for fantastic views of those that are close. We also use a
microphone and tape recorder for luring in rare and hard to see animals
that respond to their own call, spotlights for night viewing, and the
appropriate bird and mammal identification books for your enjoyment. Look
at our recommendations for some of the regions, and then let us know what
you are most interested in and when you want to travel. If we don't already
have a tour to fit your interests, we will help you design one. Enjoy
reading, and we look forward to hearing from you soon.
Focus Tours Inc.
THE
ATACAMA DESERT- Breathtaking Scenery, Ancient Cultures, Geysers and Strange
Wildlife
Rain is almost unheard of in the Atacama, the world's driest desert. Geoglyphs
set into the mountainsides by ancient Indian cultures still stand in the
form of birds, other animals, and people. Arica, the northernmost city
in the country, was founded where two fertile river valleys meet and is
based on agricultural products and offshore fishing industries. We start
our tours in the region concentrating on the uncommon birds of the valleys
before going up into the high Andes.
Outside of Arica we travel inland for 35 miles in the valley of the Lluta
River before the road starts up into the barren mountains. Soon we see
beautiful panoramic views of the green river valley and surrounding cordilleras.
The dry air becomes exceptionally clear as the biodiversity of the surrounding
mountains decreases. We finally hit an area with just one bird species,
the Greyish Miner, and only a handful of plants. Continuing up, we soon
loose even those plant species and enter zone completely devoid of all
life. Few people have ever experienced such a sterile environment. We'll
pass through 20 miles of lifeless mountains before starting to see some
spindly shrubs in the dry arroyos around 7,000 feet. Bizarre cacti and
the even stranger Mountain Vizcacha (in the Chinchilla family) give the
scene a surreal quality that has to be seen to be believed.
Further up, we find the oasis city of Putre at 10,500 feet and the isolated,
ancient, indigenous village of Parinacota within Lauca National Park.
One can purchase sweaters, hats and other items the indigenous habitants
weave out of the Alpaca wool from the region. The fascinating culture
of this zone is complimented by a number of birds that are rare and local.
One can see Mountain Parakeet, Andean Hillstar, Bare-faced Ground-Dove,
Streaked Tit-Spinetail, the scarce Band-tailed Seedeater, Ash-breasted
Sierra-Finch, Golden-billed Saltator, Blue-and-Yellow Tanager, Black-throated
Saltator and others. The magnificent Lauca National Park, with its spectacular
high Andean lakes and snow-covered volcanoes, is another of Chile's natural
extremes. Its 460,000 acres have been declared a UNESCO World Biosphere
Reserve. The lakes host a number of exciting birds, including all three
South American flamingo species, the striking Puna Teal, strange Andean
Avocet and others. In addition to the many exciting bird species that
occur here, we look for four members of the Camel family. While the Llama
and Alpaca have been domesticated throughout the millennias, the exquisite
Vicuna and more widespread Guanaco are quite wild. In lower regions we'll
search for the Huemulle, or Andean Deer, and may even see a rare Puma.
SANTIAGO AND SURROUNDING REGIONS - The High Andes
to the Ocean
Nearly 70% of Chile's 13.6 million people live in the capital city of
Santiago and other cities in surrounding heartland. Coastal cities such
as Viña del Mar are reminiscent of smaller coastal cities on the California
coast. West of Santiago are some of the most impressive mountains and
views in the Andean range. In the summer time these mountains are nearly
abandoned, while they support a bustling ski industry in the Austral winter.
The world ski record for speed was established at the Portillo resort.
Another resort high above Santiago is so close that with a pair of back-country
skis one could ski from there to the city in a day or so, and it would
almost all be downhill! The Termas de Cauquenes hot springs spa situated
in a forest in the foothills is an excellent place to stay while exploring
the surrounding wine country, not to mention for the special birds that
can be found even on the hotel grounds. In surrounding regions, one can
find the bizarre and unique parasitic Black-headed Duck, attractive Red-backed
Hawk and others. A visit to the Burrowing Parrot Reserve is a necessity.
Rare and endangered, this parrot digs extensive burrows for nesting and
roosting. With its communal nature, long wings and tail, it looks more
like a small macaw or large parakeet than a parrot. We are also likely
to see the endemic Moustached Turca, a strange, open country tapaculo,
the shy Chilean Tinamou, handsome Black-faced Ibis, local White-sided
Hillstar, incredible Giant Hummingbird and many others.
THE
LAKE DISTRICT - Snow-capped Volcanoes, Ancient Forests and Scenic Villages
The region between parallels 39º and 42º S give the world one
of the most picturesque lake regions anywhere. Twelve great lakes of varying
sizes host imposing waterfalls, snow-capped volcanoes, and lush mountain
greenery. Starting in the North at the city of Temuco, we suggest leaving
immediately for Parque Nacional Conguillio near the Argentine border.
Alpine lakes, deep canyons and extensive groves of Araucaria pines (Monkey-puzzle
trees) are found within Nothofagus "false" beech trees. The canyon around
the Truful-Truful River is spectacular, in contrast to the stark lava
fields around the Laguna Verde. A short drive to the South takes us to
Parque Nacional Villarica, which hosts three snow-capped volcanoes and
lush forests. A good paved road leading to the Argentine border gives
us excellent access. A third park worth visiting for its scenic beauty
alone is Parque Nacional Huerquehue. A trail wanders through 4.2 miles
of impressive forest and mountains to Lago Verde.
ARCHIPELAGIC
CHILE AND PATAGONIA - Rare Forests, Remote Fiords and World Class Parks
The island of Chiloé and the national park of the same name, just
south of Puerto Montt, was settled long ago by Mapuche Indians, and has
continued to exist in virtual isolation since it was claimed by Spain
in 1567. The Jesuits played a strong role in shaping the lives of the
Mapuche until they were expelled in 1767, and 79 of their churches can
still be visited. When Chile rebelled against Spain, the last of the Spanish
Governors fled to Chiloé, and in desperation offered the island
to Great Britain. The offer was turned down, and the island surrendered
to Chile in 1826.
SOUTHERN
CHILE & ARGENTINA - See Them Together!
One way to take in the special areas of both southern Chile and Argentina
is to combine them. Starting from Chile, you can go first to Puerto Montt
and on to Puerto Varas, then boat and bus through the lakes past snow
capped volcanoes to Bariloche, Argentina. There are a couple of ways to
get from there to Punta Arenas. You can bus back to Puerto Montt and fly
or boat down, or go to El Calafate on the Argentine side and cross back
by land to the beautiful Torres del Paine National Park. You can return
to Argentina via a bus on Isla Grande to Rio Grande, Argentina, and visit
Ushuaia from there before returning. Given the air fare and distance,
it often makes more sense to do southern Chile and Argentina on one tour,
leaving northern Chile and northern Argentina to visit at another time.
Eduardo is a Pantaneiro, born and raised at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve. Our non-profit arm, the Focus Conservation Fund, trained Eduardo and he has successfully guided several tours over the last two years, and developed a loyal following. He speaks conversational English and is improving all the time. Eduardo knows the birds and mammals in the Pantanal. He has a great sense of humor and is delightful to travel with. He lives at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve with his wife Juscineide, daughter Eduarda and son Joao Paulo.
Fabricio is also a Pantaneiro. Also trained by our non-profit arm, the Focus Conservation Fund, supplied and continues to support and train him. Fabricio knows the majority of birds and mammals in the Pantanal. He has the same spotting telescope, tape recording equipment, bird and mammal books and spotlights that all our naturalist guides use. His youthful enthusiasm and professional manner has already made him a popular guide. Fabricio lives at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve when he is not guiding in Mato Grosso and Minas Gerais states.
Douglas is an American who lived in Brazil for 10 of the 24 years that he has been guiding birding and general nature tours in South America. He holds a degree in Ecology from the University of Kansas. His keen ear and impressive knowledge of both birds and mammals have earned him a reputation as one of the top naturalist guides working in this part of the world. His affection for the natural world, combined with his impressive knowledge of conservation issues, have led him to be active in a number of efforts to save the areas he knows and loves. Douglas is a leader in ecotourism, and a regular speaker at international tourism and environmental congresses. He wrote the "Tropical Forest" chapter of the 1991 Mother Earth Handbook and the "American Forest" chapter of the 1999 book The Piracy of America. His paper "Making Ecotourism an Ally in Biodiversity Protection" was published in the Yale Bulletin. Douglas is the founder of the Focus Conservation Fund, a tax-exempt non-profit organization, and CECD -- Community Ecotourism Consulting & Development Inc. He is a conservation consultant, working in several countries, and speaks fluent English, Portuguese and conversational Spanish. Doug travels much of the year, and has a residence in Santa Fe, New Mexico and Brazil.
TOUR DATES: The tours described herein can be operated any time of the
year. If we don't have a tour scheduled for the time you want to travel,
we'll happily schedule a tour. This tour can then be opened to others,
or, for a small supplement, kept private for your group or family. For
private groups with 10 participants or more, there is no private tour
supplement.
GROUP SIZE: Varies with the specific tour, however most tours we operate
have between 6 and 8 participants. Contact us for details.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Tour accommodations vary from simple to luxury hotels.
Nearly all accommodations have private bath with hot water showers. Each
detailed tour itinerary provides information about the specific accommodations
for that tour. Tours usually stay in the best accommodations available,
except in large cities where nice hotels are available without paying
five star prices.
TOUR DOCUMENTS: Chile does not require a visa for Americans nor many
other nationalities. Please contact your nearest Chilean consulate or
us for more information.