The Eastern Lowlands To Cochabamba on the Old Road Cochabamba to Villa Tunari Cochabamba and the Mountains to the West Torotoro National Park Sucre to Potosí Oruro & the Lago Uru-Uru Around La Paz Bolivian Amazon Additional Information

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Bolivia Nature Tours

Bolivia is a biological & cultural treasure nestled between Brazil, Peru, Chile and Paraguay. It is the poorest and least developed country in South America, and at the same time one of the biologically and culturally richest, safest and friendliest.

The eastern lowlands are a mixture of Chaco, Pantanal wetlands and Amazon rainforest. These lowland tropics occupy 70% of the total area of Bolivia, but are home to only 20% of the population. As you move west into the foothills of the Andes the habitat changes to dry forests with impressive cliffs to heavily forested slopes, Polylepis forests and finally Puna grasslands and marshes in the Altiplano at around 12,000 feet. Above that Paramo grasslands lead up to the edge of the permanently snow covered peaks soaring to over 19,700 feet.

There are few places in the world where you can drive through high altitude Paramo grasslands, drop a few hundred feet to the Puna biome, continue down to elfin forests, cloud forests, deciduous forests, subtropical rainforests and at the end of exhilarating day be at a nice lodge in the Amazon.

Bolivia is also known for its colorful people and fascinating history. Today, a full two-thirds of Bolivia's populace are Indians, descendants of the Incas and Aymars. The colorful, traditional dress of the Indian women with their rounded hats is one vision most easily identified with Bolivia.

We offer our services in all of the areas mentioned above and more. Our naturalist guides are equipped with a spotting telescope for seeing distant animals and for fantastic views of those that are close. We also use a microphone and tape recorder for luring in rare and hard to see animals that respond to their own call, spotlights for night viewing, and the appropriate bird and mammal identification books for your enjoyment. Take a look at our recommendations for some of the regions, and then let us know what you are most interested in and when you want to travel. If we do not already have a tour to fit your interests, we will help you design one. Enjoy reading, and we look forward to hearing from you soon.

THE EASTERN LOWLANDS - Jesuit Ruins, Wetlands, & Chaco

Santa Cruz, at 1,400 feet, is Bolivia's second largest and fastest growing city. While it has little of interest outside of several three-toed sloths in the city square, it is the place where most tours start. Jesuits were some of the first Europeans into the region, and recently restored missions can be seen in the towns of Concepción, San Jose de Chiquitos, and others. Each mission is similar yet distinctly different, and history buffs will want a look.

To the north of Santa Cruz lie a couple of areas of particular interest to the nature enthusiast and bird watcher. Wetlands around the Japanese rice growing village of Okinawa 1 and Okinawa 2 support specialties including Ringed Teal, Yellow-breasted Crake and Yellow-collared Macaw. The region is reminiscent of Brazil's Pantanal, on a smaller scale. Continuing further north and a little west one arrives in Buena Vista, at the base of the impressive Amboró National Park with its Amazonian flora and fauna in the lower altitudes. Zig-zag Heron, the strange Hoatzin, Scarlet, Red-and-Green and Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, White-backed Fire-eye and other impressive birds occur with Brazilian Tapir, Bare-ear Marmoset, Dusky Titi Monkey, Common Squirrel Monkey, Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth, Collared Tamandua, Jaguar and other mammals. Like many of Bolivia's parks, access is difficult but the lower part of the park can be entered here. There are some simple accommodations in Buena Vista. The park stretches up the Andean foothills to the west. Only hiking in from the old road to Cochabamba, which we will discuss later, accesses this cloudforest section.

The new Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco National Park along the border with Paraguay is one of Bolivia's newest. It covers more than 20,000 miles, or 8.6 million acres, and is now the largest protected block of highly endangered dry forest worldwide. Giant Anteater, the newly discovered Chacoan Peccary, Giant Armadillo and several other mammals, along with a great variety of birds live here. The park is so new that no tour group has been there, and yours could be the first.

TO COCHABAMBA ON THE OLD ROAD - Forests, Deserts & Incan Ruins

Going west from Santa Cruz on the old road immediately takes you into the foothills of the Andes. They are at their widest in Bolivia (over 400 miles), so it is not surprising. The dry forests of the lowlands quickly change to lush tropical forests. Great flocks of parrots and parakeets roost here in the evening, and it is a sight to see. One does not drive much further until the wet forests give way to dry scrub near the resort town of Samaipata. The fact that the new road Santa Cruz - Cochabamba opened up was good news for nature preservation, as the rare dry deciduous forests in the Samaipata region have so far been spared. Birders will be particularly interested in this region, with specialties including the rare Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Slaty Gnateater, Dull-colored Grassquit, Buff-bellied Hermit, Slender-tailed Woodstar, Ocellated Piculet, Black-capped and Ringed Warbling-Finches and Grey-crested Finch. Even non-birders will delight in the Andean Condors, brightly colored Mitred Parakeets, and Plush-crested Jays.

Samaipata is also the southern headquarters for Amboro National Park. Visits can be made with the assistance of a park ranger/guide, but requires a long hike and camping. Still, for the adventurous traveler, huge areas of untouched temperate and subtropical forest can be explored, and you will be bringing economical reasons to keep it untouched.

Continuing up the mountains the habitat quickly changes to arid desert. Tall cacti with 10-inch spines become prominent. Just 60 miles further west takes us to the town of Comarapa and the Tambo Mission School, where we are often accommodated. While much of the native habitat has been lost to goats, this is still the best region for two endemic birds: Red-fronted Macaw and the Bolivian Earthcreeper. Birders will also be looking for the spectacular Red-tailed Comet, Spot-backed Puffbird, Cream-backed Woodpecker, Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail, White-tipped Plantcutter and Golden-billed Saltator. Non-birders would probably continue on past Comarapa and on to Cochabamba. The trip through the desert is fascinating, and if you have the time, a nice addition normally left out of general nature tours of Bolivia.

Another 45 miles west and up lifts us out of the desert and into the southernmost cloud forest in South America, occurring from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Six of Bolivia's eighteen endemic bird species are found here, in the Siberia Range. The rare Black-winged Parrot and even scarcer Chestnut-Crested Cotinga and Band-tailed Fruiteater occur along with the attractive Black-hooded Sunbeam, Rufous-faced Antpitta and Grey-bellied Flower-piercer.

The impressive Inkallajta Ruins not far from here are Bolivia's modest answer to Peru's Machu Picchu. Located some 60 miles from Cochabamba, the ruins are set on a flat spur of land at the mouth of a steep valley. Historians believe the fort was founded in the 1460ís by the Incan Emperor Tupac Yupanqui as the easternmost outpost of the Inca Empire. The immensely fortified city consists of over 50 buildings, and the temple is believed to have been the largest roofed building in the empire. Guarani Indians from the lowlands invaded and destroyed the city in 1525, and it remains basically unchanged but partially grown over since then. Surprisingly, the site is not a major tourist destination, and the easiest way to get in is to negotiate with one of the local truck owners along the highway.

COCHABAMBA TO VILLA TUNARI - High Altitude Puna to Lowland Amazon

From the delightful city of Cochabamba at 8,400 feet we begin on the Villa Tunari road, known to be one of the best birding sites in South America. It is also a botanist's dream as the road climbs to the Puna ridge at 12,000 feet before dropping back down to elfin forest, cloud forest and then rich montane temperate forest. In this region one can find the endemic Black-winged Parrot, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Great Sapphirewing, Black-hooded Sunbeam, the fabulous Golden-headed and Crested Quetzals, White-throated Quail-Dove, Hooded Mountain-Toucan, Blue-banded Toucanet, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, the endemic Black-throated Thistletail, Rufous Antpitta, Andean Tapaculo, Rufous-breasted and Brown-backed Chat-tyrants, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Blue-and-Black Tanager, and White-browed Conebill.

The road continues on down the road to a place that we regularly have lunch in the upper subtropical rainforest at around 5,000 feet. The forest here is humid with many epiphytes and reminiscent of the Atlantic coastal rainforests of Brazil. At this altitude, the forest is rich in little known species. Possibilities include the Brown Tinamou, Andean and Sickle-winged Guans, Plumbeous Pigeon, a showy race of the Collared Inca with a chestnut collar, Long-tailed Sylph, Booted Rackettail, Masked Trogon, the gaudy Versicolored Barbet, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Red-necked Woodpecker, Olive- backed Woodcreeper, the shy White-throated Antpitta, Blue-backed Manakin, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, the scarce and endemic Yungas Tody-Tyrant, White-eared Solitaire, Spotted Nightingale-Thrush, Saffron-cowled, Slaty, Straw-backed and Spotted Tanagers, Deep-blue Flower-Piercer and many others. Further down the road, approaching Amazonian rainforest, one can see the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, a large, orange/red bird with black wings and tail, white patches on the wing and an almost comical plumage on its forehead resembling an orange slice.

We finally descend into the tropical lowlands and the resort town of Villa Tunari as the end of an exhilarating day. We will have dropped some 10,500 feet from the pass this morning. At the foot of the Andes, 1,475 feet above sea level, Villa Tunari is in one of the wettest areas of sub-tropical forest on the continent. Based in Villa Tunari, birders will want to look for a number of Amazonian species. Occurring here are the Amazonian Umbrellabird, Black-throated Antbird, Black-spotted Barbet, Black Phoebe, Swainsonís Thrush, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Crested and Dusky-green Oropendolas, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Black-and-chestnut Eagle and the restricted Upland Antshrike. The nearby Carrasco National Park is reached by a cable ride across a raging river. One at a time we will be whisked across the river in a safe but exciting ride. The river crossing is an adventure in itself, but our goal here is a cave with the southernmost population of Oilbirds. In a safe procedure a single seat is pulled across a cable over the rushing river below. Somewhere in these habitats lurks the rare Spectacled Bear. Reaching 200kg, the bear is omnivorous and inhabits the forest floor, trees and the unlucky farmer's corn field. Its black or brown body has white circles around the eyes, giving it its name.

We recommend 4 or 5 days to fully explore the Villa Tunari road, which may be the highlight of any Bolivia tour.

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COCHABAMBA & THE MOUNTAINS TO THE WEST - Polylepis Woodlands & Rare Birds

Cochabamba is Bolivia's third largest city, with a population over 300,000. It was founded in 1571, has a delightful climate and is in one of the richest agricultural regions in the country. Numerous churches and buildings dating back to the 16th century set the atmosphere, along with the colorful dress of the Incan descendants and the lively artesian markets.

Birders and nature enthusiasts will want to take at least one day to explore the mountains to the east of Cochabamba. Slopes covered with the increasingly rare, gnarled red-bark Polylepis trees, which grow at higher altitudes in Bolivia than any other tree species, dominate a habitat that hosts a number of other life forms. The endemic Bolivian Warbling-finch is here, along with dazzling hummingbirds including the Giant, Red-tailed Comet, and Sparkling Violet-ear. Grey-hooded Parakeets leave their roosts squawking loudly as they race to the lower forests. Continuing on to a treeline forest with rushing mountain streams, one can often see Torrent Ducks feed next to White-capped Dippers. Also occurring are Tufted and Yellow-bellied Tit-tyrants, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Giant Conebill, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Puna Hawk, Bare-faced and Black-winged Ground-Doves, Rock Earthcreeper, Andean Hillstar, Olive-crowned Crescent-chest and White-browed Chat-Tyrant. Other birds we may see here and in a rocky canyon are Andean Swallow, Andean Flicker, Plain-breasted Earthcreeper, White-winged Cinclodes, Streak-throated Canestero, White-fronted, Cinereous and Puna ground-tyrants, Greenish and Bright-rumped Yellow-Finches, Rufous-bellied Saltator, Fulvous-headed Brush-Finch, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and White-winged Duica-Finch.

When with birders, we make a special effort for one of the Bolivian endemics with the most restricted ranges: the Cochabamba Mountain-Finch. All tourists will be thrilled with the spectacular scenery above the treeline, and interaction with the people who live there. In many ways, it is like stepping back into the Middle Ages. I will also help condition those who will be going up in altitude later in their trip. Two or three days are adequate to see the sights in the city and get in some great birding and sightseeing.

TOROTORO NATIONAL PARK - Remote and Incredible, for Small Groups Only

This remote park and city of the same name is both a paleontologist's dream and geographer's puzzle. It is also a naturalist's treasure. The rare, gaudy and endemic Red-fronted Macaw occurs in a nearby river valley in perhaps its highest concentrations. Numerous biped and quadruped dinosaur tracks from the Cretaceous Period can be seen, along with some three-toed tracks about 10" long. The largest tracks are about 14" wide, 20" long and 8" deep; the reptile had a gait of nearly 6 feet. Dinosaur bone fragments may be seen in the red soils. Another puzzle of Torotoro is that almost all the tracks lead uphill. At just under four miles northwest of town the stream running through the park disappears into the 1.25-mile Umajalanta Cave. Stalagmites and stalactites abound, along with blind catfish, a waterfall, and even more dinosaur tracks. Flashlights with extra batteries, as well as being in good shape, are required for the hike and strenuous cave exploring. Twisting and turning through tight squeezes is to be expected, and those with an interest in cave exploring will rate this as a tour highlight.

In other areas, incredible red rock canyons are worth exploring, along with an Incan fortress rarely visited, which requires camping out in order to see. This provides a great opportunity for adventure off the beaten path. Access to Torotoro is by chartered plane or a long, rough ride standing in the back of a large truck with many other people. We think the plane ride, with the incredible scenery, is the way to go. Why only small groups? The town has precious little in the way of accommodation, almost no contact with the outside world for making reservations and no electricity. We usually sleep in rooms attached to a church, and enjoy excellent vegetarian meals in the house of the minister. Well worth a three-night stay, in our opinion, and birders will enjoy the endemic Bolivian Blackbirds and other avifauna. Torotoro is also a town where a lot of weavings come from, and may be purchased directly from the towns' people.

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SUCRE & POTOSÍ - History, Mines, Incan Thermal Baths and the Tarabuco Market

While many people know that La Paz is the capitol of Bolivia, few seem to know the country has two capitals. La Paz holds most of the power, but Sucre holds the Judicial Branch and the Supreme Court. Sucre is also considered to be the most beautiful city in Bolivia with its colonial heritage, elegant square and white government buildings. It is certainly an intellectual center as well. To get here requires a flight or a long but interesting drive through the desert from Cochabamba.

East and down from Sucre is the Indian village of Tarabuco, which produces much of and some of the best weavings, ponchos, sweaters, etc. in Bolivia. The market is on Sundays, and has recently become quite touristy. Still, good buys can be found.

One can take the train from Sucre to Potosí, and groups traveling together can actually rent a bus converted to fit the tracks! The drive is interesting, but the train gives one a chance to see part of the backcountry usually only accessible by hiking. Potosí itself, at 13,000 feet, is the world's highest city, and has a rich, historical mining background due to the incredible amount of silver mined from the Cerro Rico mountain looming over the city. With large-scale mining starting in 1545 and not slowing down until the 1800's, Potosí was at one time the largest city in Latin America and one of the largest in the world. Indian and then African slaves working in horrid conditions pulled enough silver out 'to build a bridge to Spain, and still have enough silver to carry on it.' So horrid were the conditions, with smelting going on in the mine, that from 1545 to 1825 over 8 million Africans and Indians died. By law, all Indian and African men over 18 were required to work 12 hour shifts, eating and sleeping underground without seeing the light of day for four months at a time. With the smoke, arsenic and other poisonous fumes, it is no wonder so many did not survive. When the mining reforms of 1952 were passed things improved immensely in the government owned mines. Many private mines, however, have remained unchanged since the mid 1500's, and one can step back in time with a visit. In 1987, UNESCO named Potosí a World Heritage Site.

From Potosí one can drive to Oruro on a very bad road, with great scenery only in the first half-hour. We recommend returning to Sucre and flying. One wishing to visit Sucre and Potosí should plan on at least four days.

ORURO & THE LAGO URU-URU - Flamingos, Flamingos & Flamingos

Oruro is a mining city built on the slopes of a hill at 12,150 feet. The city does not have much to offer the visitor aside from the La Diablada festival, which has become the best known and largest annual celebration in the country. Festivities begin the first Saturday after Ash Wednesday, and those wishing to experience should make their reservations well in advance. Brightly colored costumes feature wild masks, which can be purchased in the city any time of the year. Another interesting stop is the Museo Mineralógico, with its collection of precious stones, fossils, minerals and crystals from around the world.

The other draw to the city is the Uru-Uru Lake, with its rich avian delights. An ancient inland sea once covered this lake as well as Titicaca and the other saline lakes in the Altiplano. Today, the two lakes are only connected in wet years by the Desaguardero River. Uru-Uru has extensive shallow shores with teeming waterfowl, shorebirds, marshbirds and waders. The most important of these is the endemic Short-winged Grebe. At times the lake teems with three species of flamingos: Chilean, Andean and a small number of James'. Puna Yellow-Finch and other interesting species of land birds can also be seen. Birders on a tighter schedule can leave Cochabamba early, bird on the way to Oruro and visit the lake after lunch. It is only three hours on to La Paz from Oruro.

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AROUND LA PAZ - Titicaca Lake & Roads to the Lowland Rain Forests

La Paz at 11,929 feet is the highest capital in the world, yet 1,200 feet below the surrounding Andean Altiplano and city El Alto. The famous Mount Illimani towers over the city, which appears to sit in a crater. With its peak at over 21,000 feet, it is permanently covered with snow and glaciers. La Paz has a population of just less than two million. An impressive half of all residents are Incan or Aymar· descendants, speaking their native tongue. You will no doubt want to explore the Indian market, as well as a number of other stores selling items unique to the region.

The road to Coroico is surely one of the most impressive drives on Earth. Leaving La Paz you climb through the clouds to La Cumbre Pass at over 15,500 feet. Snowcapped peaks and snowfields surround you. Start down from here, dropping over 14,100 feet in less than 50 miles. Pass Paramo grasslands with bogs, Puna with Andean lakes, elfin forest with bamboo and cloud forest before arriving at the exuberant Yungas subtropical rainforest. The steepness of the region is the reason so much good habitat remains. You will want to stop in the different habitats on the way, and birding or botanizing the steep temperate and sub-tropical slopes will be exhilarating.

A number of birds occur in these habitats that are different from those on the Cochabamba/Vila Tunari road. Natural Puna gardens attract a variety of hummingbirds including the Andean Hillstar. This delightful jewel is well adapted to the high altitude with its abilities to go into a dormant torpor to save energy at night and on cold days. Canyons on the way up to the pass host Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Short-tailed Finch. Near the pass one can find Andean Goose, White-fronted and other Ground-Tyrants, Gray-breasted and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes and the rare and exquisite Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Going down the other side, possibilities include Scaled Metaltail, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Citrine Warbler, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, the dazzling Golden-collared Tanager, Moustached Flower-piercer and a race of Light-crowned Spinetail with a white crest. Further down the habitat becomes more sub-tropical, with huge bamboo stands intermixed with cloud forest. Several bamboo specialists forage here, including Sepia-brown Wren, Plushcap, Superciliaried, Three-striped, Orange-browed and Drab Hemispinguses. Some of the forest species include Hooded Mountain-Toucan, Rust-and-Yellow, Blue-and-Black and Blue-capped Tanagers, Crimson-mantled and Bar-bellied Woodpeckers, Long-tailed Sylph, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Rufous-capped Thornbill, Rufous-bellied Brush-Tyrant and Southern Mountain Cacique. Continuing down look for Black-winged and Plum-crowned Parrots, Crested and Golden-headed Quetzals, Band-tailed and Barred Fruiteaters, Barred Becard, Crescent-chested Cotinga, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Andean and White-eared Solitaires, Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant, Mountain Wren, White-collared Jay and a dazzling array of tanagers. One can also find the highly localized Scribble-tailed Canestero.

The Zongo Valley, north of La Paz, is another birding option with great scenery. One drives between two of Bolivia's tallest peaks and past a series of lakes used to produce electricity. This road also dips down into lush forest, and an advantage during the wet months of October through May is that the road is wet, and thus no dust. With so many dirt roads, dust can be a problem all over the country in July, August and other dry months.

Lake Titicaca, to the west of La Paz, is the last stretch of an ancient inland sea that once covered over 38,600 square miles and included Lake Uru-Uru. It is the world's highest navigable lake, and stretches over 3,140 square miles. Its greatest known depth is 918 feet. Floating totora reeds enable descendants of the Uru Indians to maintain floating villages, and inhabitants of the south use them to build the distinctive reed boats for which the lake is known. Thor Heyerdahl had artisans from Suriqui Island build both the 'Ra II' and 'Tigris' for his transoceanic expeditions. Boats are rarely made from the reeds anymore, except as museum pieces. Aluminum and fiberglass boats last much longer. In the marshy shorelines the endemic Short-winged Grebe lives among the totora reeds. One can also see Silvery Grebe, Plumbeous Rail, Andean Ruddy-Duck, Mourning and Peruvian Sierra-Finches, Black-winged Ground-Dove and Black Siskin.

You can continue along the northeastern shore of the lake to the ferry across the Tiquina Straights, and on to Copacabana. This attractive little town sits on a peninsula in Lake Titicaca at around 12,000 feet, just under 100 miles from La Paz. The city has several churches and the 16th century miracle working Dark Virgin of the Lake, the patron saint of Bolivia. Views of the lake are stunning. One can take a boat to Isla del Sol, an island a short distance from Copacabana. A sacred rock on the island is worshipped as the birthplace of Manco Huaca and Manco Kapac, the first Incas. Several ruins and temples are found on the island in the deep blue water of Lake Titicaca.

Another place of interest around Bolivia is the ruins of Tiwanaku on the south end of Lake Titicaca. Archaeologists believe Tiwanaku existed as early as 1600 BC as the ceremonial complex set in the center of an ancient empire that stretched over half of Bolivia, southern Peru, northern Chile and northwest Argentina. The ruins consist of four main structures. A sunken temple's walls are lined with stone carvings of different faces. Three splendid monuments include the Puerto del Sol (Door to the Sun), and two monoliths. All have intricate carvings that are thought to be a calendar, with condor and puma faces, two left hands, a snake with a human face and other oddities. The largest building is the Acapana pyramid. This can be seen in just half a day from La Paz, and combines well with an afternoon trip to the lake.

La Paz and the surrounding areas of interest can easily fill four full days.

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THE BOLIVIA AMAZON

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