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Focus on Argentina
Outside Buenos Aires
The Pantanal and Ibera Wetlands
Iguazú Falls
The Chaco
The Yungas and High Andes
The Valdez Peninsula
El Calafate
Tierra del Fuego
San Carlos de Bariloche
Southern Chile and Argentina
Additional Information

Argentina
(click to enlarge)

The eighth largest country in the world, Argentina offers the traveler a wealth of experiences. From the subtropical rain forests of Iguazú Falls to the high Andes to the Beagle Channel, it has something for everyone, and is especially attractive to the naturalist. In the north, the extension of Brazil's Pantanal and the Ibera wetlands combine with a vast expanse of Chaco to the west. Continuing west, painted desert mountains end in the north with the altiplano on the border with Bolivia. Humid, rich cloud forests of the Yungas lie west and a little to the south, while the spectacular Iguazú Falls in the northeast offer the other rainforests in the northern region.

GuanacosThe Pampas grasslands extend south from Buenos Aires to the windswept deserts of Patagonia. Unique temperate rain forests straddle the mighty Andes between Puerto Montt, Chile and Bariloche, Argentina. The route between the two cities by ferry and bus takes the traveler past snow-capped volcanoes, exciting mountain scenery and lush forests, separated by the amazingly blue water of the region. Tierra del Fuego hosts the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, which overlooks the green water of the Beagle Channel. The huge, growing Upsala Glacier and the naturally sculptured icebergs in the peaceful Lago Onelli offer an almost dreamlike experience. The Valdez Peninsula on the coast of Patagonia hosts whales, Sea Elephants, seals, penguins, Maras, Guanacos and other animals. From the Quechua Indians to the Gaucho cowboys; from the high Andes in the north to the Land of Fire, and from monkeys and toucans to whales and Sea Elephants, Argentina offers spectacular scenery, fascinating cultures and a diverse fauna that can be found nowhere else.

We offer our services in all of the areas mentioned above and more. Our naturalist guides are equipped with a spotting telescope for seeing distant animals and for fantastic views of those that are close. We also use a microphone and tape recorder for luring in rare and hard to see animals that respond to their own call, spotlights for night viewing, and the appropriate bird and mammal identification books for your enjoyment. Look at our recommendations for some of the regions, and then let us know what you are most interested in and when you want to travel. If we don't already have a tour to fit your interests, we will help you design one. Enjoy reading, and we look forward to hearing from you soon.

Douglas & Alessandra
Focus Tours Inc.


Marsh Deer OUTSIDE BUENOS AIRES - The Pampas Grasslands, Marshes and Estuaries

The Pampas of central Argentina is one of the world's greatest savanna and marsh biomes. It's system of grasslands, extensive salt-grass marshes, coastal habitats, lakes and tidal estuaries paint a colorful picture, and the ease with which one can see the birds of the Pampas makes this a Mecca for bird watchers. Pampas is a word with indigenous origins, describing a magical, open area of grasslands and woods. Most of the birds that once inhabited the original expanse of Pampas are represented within the short distance between Buenos Aires and San Clemente del Tuyu on the coast to the southeast. Based in San Clemente, within three or four days one can see an amazing variety and quantity of birds with ease. The Maguari Stork with its bright red legs and spectacles, the rare Dot-winged, Red-and-White and Speckled Crakes, Guira Cuckoo, Wren-like Rushbird, the rare Crested Doradito, Diademed Tanager, the elegant Red-crested Cardinal, Correndera Pipit, Black-and-rufous and Red-rumped Warbling-Finches are but a few of the birds we'll look for. Bright blue morning skies are filled with the calls of songbirds, and one can see up to 100 species on a good day. The Costanera Sur reserve outside of Buenos Aires regularly produces between 60 and 80 species of birds that are seen well due to the numerous pools divided by the dams we walk on. With time to see the exciting city of Buenos Aires, the Pampas are a great place to start an extended tour into either northern or southern Argentina. The Pampas are one region that should be added to any Argentine tour, even if it is just in the form of a visit to Costanera Sur.

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Jabiru Storks, PantanalTHE PANTANAL AND IBERA WETLANDS - Mammals, Reptiles and Birds

The mighty Paraguay River starts just north of Brazil's Pantanal, and gains force as it slowly works south. When it hits the Paraguayan border it is already a major river, and gains in volume as it travels south traversing Paraguay to Asuncion. From there, it forms the border of Argentina and Paraguay down to its confluence with the Paraná River near Resistencia. The Pantanal ecosystem follows the river's edge and in the Argentine portion becomes more accessible than in any other region outside Brazil. The 8,000 square miles of Ibera wetlands are found south of the Paraná River, this forms the southern border of Paraguay with Argentina. In both wetland systems, seasonally flooded grasslands, marshes, palm savannas and lakes host a number of mammals, reptiles and birds. We can see the Yacare Caiman, Marsh and Pampas Deer, Black-and-Gold Howler Monkeys and Bare-ear Marmosets, and occasionally the rare Maned Wolf and Giant Anteater. Bird species include the rare and gaudy Black-hooded Parakeet, Blue-fronted Parrot, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Chotoy Spinetail, rare, elusive and local flycatchers including the Streamer-tailed, Strange-tailed, Cock-tailed and Sharp-tailed Tyrants, Bearded Tachuri, Black-and-white Monjita, Blue-billed Black-tyrant and others. All three South American storks, the Jabiru, Wood and Maguari, can be seen. This is also the best place to see several uncommon and very local seedeaters, including the Dark-throated, Marsh, Chestnut and more common Rusty-collared, Tawny and Capped Seedeaters. Icterid possibilities include Screaming Cowbird, Chestnut-capped, Unicolored, Scarlet-headed and Chopi Blackbirds along with the rare Saffron-cowled Blackbird.

Between the Pantanal north of Formosa and the Ibera south of Corrientes, one crosses a wetland/chaco transition zone, where you can pick up species such as the Great Rufous and Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, Purple-throated Euphonia, Spotted Northura, Greater Rhea and other species. We recommend five days split evenly between these two wetlands, and less if you've been to Brazil's Pantanal and want to spend more time in a different region.

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Iguazu FallsIGUAZÚ FALLS - Rain Forests, Wildlife & Spectacular Waterfalls

Perhaps the largest remaining area of Atlantic forest, which mainly occurs in Brazil, is inland at Iguazú Falls. The national parks on the Brazilian (Iguaçu) and Argentine (Iguazú) sides of the mighty Iguazú River and falls total over 550,000 acres of sub-tropical rainforest. With the added year-round humidity created by the crashing water at the falls, the forests are especially rich in vegetation and the accompanying fauna.

The impressive series of falls rank as one of the most spectacular settings on the continent. Thousands of people come here each year to see the spectacular falls, yet the national parks on both sides remain almost undiscovered as a wildlife viewing destination. Their luxurious sub-tropical rain forests constitute one of South America's finest areas for seeing mammals such as Little and Red Brocket Deer, South American Coati, White-eared Opossum, and a sub-species of the Brown Capuchin. Also occurring but harder to see are Jaguar, Ocelot, Jaguarundi, Puma, Margay, White-lipped Peccary, Bush Dog and Southern River Otter. The endangered Tegu Lizard is common, and the number of butterflies one can see is astounding.

The two parks are a top bird watching destination as well. Fortunately, and unfortunately, both the Argentine and Brazilian parks have finally established mass transit systems to control car traffic in the two parks. At the sime time however, they greatly restricted access into the parks before 800am, and cut visitation to regions not on the normal visitor routes. This has greatly hurt our ability to offer you birding tours here, but it is still worthwhile for birds seen outside of the park, and around the falls.

Whether Iguazú Falls is your main destination or just part of a larger tour, it will certainly be a favorite, and shouldn't be missed! Two full days are recommended.

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Whit-eared PuffbirdTHE CHACO - Low Desert Woodland with Abundant Wildlife

The dry, low brushy woodland of the Argentine Chaco is reminiscent of the American Southwest, with an abundant and exuberant birdlife and ample reptiles. It is also one of South America's centers of avian endenism. None the less, it is seldom visited and holds many surprises. Most of the vegetation is low and thorny scrub, with the two dominant tree species being mesquites with many other species present in smaller numbers. Many of the genera are the same as those in the American Southwest. Man's influence has increased the abundance of ground bromeliads and cacti. Quebracho woodlands stand in soils that are less saline, and you may see a species of Palo Verde. We start in the humid eastern Chaco at Resistencia and work our way west to the dryer western Chaco just east of Jujuy. While the birder will want to spend six days in the region, the general nature enthusiast would be happy with two or three days. Birders and non-birders alike will enjoy the rich flora, along with spectacular birds such as the Maroon-bellied and Blue-crowned Parakeets, Pale-crested Woodpecker, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Golden-winged Cacique, Red-crested Cardinal, Aplomado Falcon, Black-legged Seriema, Stripe-backed Antbird, and a handful of dazzling hummingbirds including the Gilded and Rufous-throated Sapphires. Going out with a spotlight at night could reveal a Maned Wolf, South American Fox, a variety of rodents and reptiles, and birds such as the Scissor-tailed Nightjar, Common Potoo, Tropical Screech-Owl and others. We visit two national parks: Chaco in the east and El Rey in the west, where we may see Black Howler Monkey and other mammals in the gallery forests. As one of the major habitats in South America, the Chaco is worth a visit regardless of your interests.

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Red-tailed CometTHE YUNGAS AND HIGH ANDES - Cloud Forests, Ancient Cultures & Rare Birds

The amazing beauty, richness of the flora and fauna surprise nearly all who visit this region, and incredible differences between the various habitats visited. These factors make this one of our most popular tours in the country. The dry painted deserts of Salta, Jujuy and the road north to the town of Humahuaca give way to fields of golden puna grasslands, which in turn gives way to the altiplano with its saline lakes hosting three species of flamingo. South and west of Jujuy, above 4,000 feet, the Yungas subtropical cloud and rainforests dominate with their exuberant vegetation and rich avifauna. In the mountain passes above the forest line, the transition zone, puna and paramo habitats reign.

In the small towns of Tilcara and Humahuaca, one can purchase intricate woodcarvings and striking ceramic masks from the indigenous people of the desert. Quechua Indians dominate the towns in the Yungas, adding to the cultural experience of a visit to the region.

The great variety of birds is what draws most tourists to the region, although the scenery and cultures alone would draw equally as many if not more if they were better known. Rare, local and recently described birds include the Slaty Elaenia, Ringed Teal, Montane Forest Screech-Owl, Black-capped Antwren, the very rare Red-faced Guan, Green-cheeked Parakeet, Rufous-throated Dipper, Alder and Burrowing Parrots, Puna and Ornate Tinamous, Puna Rhea, Giant Coot, the elusive Sandy Gallito, Tucuman Mountain-Finch, Scribble-tailed Canestero, and others. Some of the more common birds, including the incomparable Red-tailed Comet and Yellow-collared Macaw, are equally if not more impressive as they fly across the Andean scenery.

We'll also keep an eye out for Vicuna, a South American member of the Camel family. While an endangered species, it is common in some of the areas we visit in the region, and you should see a couple of small groups near the road.

Rich subtropical rain forests, rugged canyons, fields of golden grasses, painted desert mountains and saline lakes in the altiplano make this a fascinating trip for anyone. We recommend 9 days in the region.

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Sea ElephantTHE VALDEZ PENINSULA - Whales, Sea Elephants, Penguins and more

The bleak, wind-blown and wild 780,000 square kilometers (301,158 square miles) of Patagonia have a magical quality that has affected people throughout the ages. Perhaps it is the wide openness of the desert, the strange and wonderful animals that inhabit it, or the sheer degree of desolation. Although Patagonia makes up 30% of Argentina, only three percent of the Argentine population lives there. Perhaps it is the strong winds Patagonia is famous for, which can suddenly stop and reveal a beautiful and unnatural silence that seems to pierce the ages. Whatever it is about Patagonia, it is certain to leave a lasting impression on anyone who experiences it.

We focus on the Valdez Peninsula, which juts out from the Argentine coast about half way between Buenos Aires and Tierra del Fuego. Steep cliffs composed of fossilized shells, deep blue sea, shores of multicolored pebbles, and jagged rocks characterize the peninsula. It teems with marine and land mammals along with a rich variety of marine and land birds. Southern Right Whales and their calves are there from October to early December. Sea Elephants, with 18 foot long males weighing up to 4 tons, are permanent residents, along with Southern Sea Lions, Guanacos and introduced European Hare are permanent residents. The strange Mara or Patagonian Cavy, was once called Patagonian Hare, and has been described as looking like "a rabbit wearing a miniskirt". The occasional pod of Orcas (Killer Whales) swims by, looking for an opportunity to lunge up on the beach to catch an unsuspecting Sea Lion. The bird life is also strange and beautiful. Along the craggy shores look for White-chinned and Giant petrels, Rock, Guanay and King Cormorants, the striking Black-browed Albatross, Blackish and American oystercatchers, the recently described White-headed Flightless Steamer-Duck, Antarctic Skua, the yellow-billed subspecies of Sandwich Tern and others. Land birds include Elegant Crested Tinamou, White-throated Cacholote, Burrowing Parrot, Patagonian Yellow-Finch, Lesser Canestero and others. Endemics include Carbonated Sierra-Finch, Rusty-backed Monjita, Patagonian Canestero and Band-tailed Earthcreeper.

Our tour to the Valdez also permits a side trip south to Punta Tombo, where we visit one of the largest Magellenic Penguin colonies, with a population of around 1.5 million! A small corner of the protected colony is open to visitors, where we'll be able to walk on restricted trails with the knee high penguins as they squawk, bawl and bray their way to the sea to eat and get food for their young. This is one of the few places where photographers can get nice close ups, which will nicely compliment her photo collection from all the other stupendous photo opportunities the Valdez Peninsula offers. We suggest four or five days in the region.

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El  Calafate EL CALAFATE - Land of the Glaciers

In the far southwest corner of Patagonia lies a land of mountains cut by enormous glacier ending in stark, blue lakes. It is a land of natural extremes. Starting from the port town of Rio Gallegos on the Argentine coast, we drive west to the "Lakes of the White Frost", a pair of lakes where the rare Hooded Grebe was discovered in 1974. From there we continue on to the pleasant town of El Calafate, just up the hill from the glacier fed Lago Argentino. From our comfortable base, we'll travel by boat to the immense Upsala Glacier, where we watch huge chunks of ice calve into the frigid waters. The boat trip through such spectacular scenery is exhilarating. From the glacier, we continue on to a dock on the forest edge. A short trail leads us to the surreal Onelli Lake. The calm waters of the lake host a myriad of large, naturally sculptured icebergs, and you'll enjoy a sack lunch from the forest edge in this magical setting of beech trees, ice capped mountains and icebergs.

In Argentina's spectacular Los Glaciares National Park, you can don crampons and hike on a glacier, or sit a close but safe distance from the Perito Moreno Glacier, the only known growing glacier. You'll realize the force of a calving glacier as one massive chunk after another plunges into the water, sending powerful waves across the channel. The raw and rugged scenery is remarkably similar to scenes from Alaska, all the way down to the spectacular bird life. We'll look for the impressive Andean Condor, Chilean Flamingo, Austral Parakeet, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Austral Pygmy Owl, the powerful Magellenic Woodpecker, Chilean Flicker, and rare birds such as the Patagonian Tinamou, Great Shrike-Tyrant and Bronze-winged (Spectacled) Duck.

While the amount of wildlife is less in this region than in others, the scenery alone often makes this a highlight of any Argentine tour. We recommend 5 days from Rio Gallegos. The other ways to get there is from Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, which you can learn more about in our Chile tour descriptions.

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Magellenic Penguins TIERRA DEL FUEGO - Land of Fire & Ice

The setting for the southernmost city in the Western Hemisphere, Ushuaia, is beautiful lakes, forests, mountains and the swift, frigid waters of the Beagle Channel. Isla Grande, the island shared by Chile and Argentina, hosts Ushuaia, and Tierra del Fuego is not part of the continuous South American continent. For this reason and even more so the climate due to its position at 55º S, the bird and mammal diversity is low. At the same time, much of what is there is rare and local. The dense forests are made up of only six tree species, including three Nothofagus species. Look for the rare Bicolored Hawk, White-throated Caracara, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-throated Treerunner, Black-chinned Siskin and three very scarce species: White-bellied Seedsnipe, Gray-flanked Cinclodes and Yellow-bridled Finch.

A day on a boat in the Beagle Channel may be more productive in producing mammals. While the land is relatively mammal poor, the sea here is rich. It is unrealistic to think we'll see most of the marine mammals that occur here, but we will certainly see several. Look for the Long-finned Pilot Whale, Risso's, Peale's, and Hourglass Dolphins, Southern Right Whale, Spotted, and Burmeister's porpoises, Southern Bottle-nosed Whale, Hector's Beaked Whale, Strap-toothed Mesoplodon, Goose-beaked, Sperm, Minke, Sei, Fin and Humpback Whales. We'll also keep our eyes out for a number of penguins, which stray up to here from Antarctica from time to time. Look for King and Gentoo Penguins and possibly other species along with the regular Magellenic Penguins. Other coastal and ocean birds we expect are Black-browed Albatross, the local Magellenic Diving-Petrel, Southern Giant-Petrel, King and Rock Cormorants, Blue-eyed Shag, Kelp Goose, Chilean Skua, and the rare Striated Caracara.

We recommend 4 days in the Tierra del Fuego region, but those with a greater interest in marine mammals may want an extra day on the channel.

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SAN CARLOS DE BARILOCHE - Switzerland in Argentina

This picturesque city on the lakes that connect to Puerto Varas, Chile, is worth mentioning as well. The town is charming, with a central square overlooking a sparking blue Lake Nahuel Huapi. Saint Bernards are common, and the smell of chocolate drifts through the air. Architecture reminiscent of Switzerland is the standard, and shops feature beautiful ceramics, sweaters, hand-woven rugs and other specialties. Outside of town, to the south and west, you can take horseback rides and even camping trips on horseback through forests and canyon lands with strange rock formations. The crossing of the lakes into Chile by boat and bus is spectacular, and you can go half way, spend the night in a nice hotel, and return without going further into Chile. The forests north of town are beautiful, and inspired Walt Disney to design the forests in his children's movie, Bambi. We are not generally "city people" but are very comfortable with this recommendation. It is one of our favorite places in South America.

Torres del Paine NPSOUTHERN CHILE & ARGENTINA - See Them Together!

One way to take in the special areas of both southern Chile and Argentina is to combine them. Starting from Argentina, you can go first to Bariloche, then boat and bus through the lakes past snow capped volcanoes to Puerto Varas, Chile, or maybe even on to Puerto Montt. There are a couple of ways to get from there to Punta Arenas, the furthest city south of mainland Chile, and from there you can go to the beautiful Torres del Paine National Park, followed by slipping back into Argentina to take in Calafate. You can either return to Chile and Punta Arenas and cross Isla Grande to Ushuaia, or go from Calafate to Rio Gallegos and south to Ushuaia. The Valdez Peninsula would be a good follow-up. Given the air fare and distance, it often makes more sense to do southern Chile and Argentina on one tour, leaving northern Chile and northern Argentina to visit at another time.

Argentina is an immense country, and we have not exhausted its places of interest here. We can offer tours to any of these areas, and can combine several to create a longer itinerary. In addition to our guided tours, we are happy to help you design a "do-it-yourself" itinerary that meets your own needs. We want your experience in Argentina and with Focus Tours to make you very, very happy.

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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

TOUR LEADER: Eduardo Falcão, Fabricio Dorelio or Douglas Trent...to be determined.

Eduardo is a Pantaneiro, born and raised at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve. Our non-profit arm, the Focus Conservation Fund, trained Eduardo and he has successfully guided several tours over the last two years, and developed a loyal following. He speaks conversational English and is improving all the time. Eduardo knows the birds and mammals in the Pantanal. He has a great sense of humor and is delightful to travel with. He lives at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve with his wife Juscineide, daughter Eduarda and son Joao Paulo.

Fabricio is also a Pantaneiro. Also trained by our non-profit arm, the Focus Conservation Fund, supplied and continues to support and train him. Fabricio knows the majority of birds and mammals in the Pantanal. He has the same spotting telescope, tape recording equipment, bird and mammal books and spotlights that all our naturalist guides use. His youthful enthusiasm and professional manner has already made him a popular guide. Fabricio lives at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve when he is not guiding in Mato Grosso and Minas Gerais states.

Douglas is an American who lived in Brazil for 10 of the 24 years that he has been guiding birding and general nature tours in South America. He holds a degree in Ecology from the University of Kansas. His keen ear and impressive knowledge of both birds and mammals have earned him a reputation as one of the top naturalist guides working in this part of the world. His affection for the natural world, combined with his impressive knowledge of conservation issues, have led him to be active in a number of efforts to save the areas he knows and loves. Douglas is a leader in ecotourism, and a regular speaker at international tourism and environmental congresses. He wrote the "Tropical Forest" chapter of the 1991 Mother Earth Handbook and the "American Forest" chapter of the 1999 book The Piracy of America. His paper "Making Ecotourism an Ally in Biodiversity Protection" was published in the Yale Bulletin. Douglas is the founder of the Focus Conservation Fund, a tax-exempt non-profit organization, and CECD -- Community Ecotourism Consulting & Development Inc. He is a conservation consultant, working in several countries, and speaks fluent English, Portuguese and conversational Spanish. Doug travels much of the year, and has a residence in Santa Fe, New Mexico and Brazil.

TOUR DATES: The tours described herein can be operated any time of the year. If we don't have a tour scheduled for the time you want to travel, we'll happily schedule a tour. This tour can then be opened to others, or, for a small supplement, kept private for your group or family. For private groups with 10 participants or more, there is no private tour supplement.

GROUP SIZE: Varies with the specific tour, however most tours we operate have between 6 and 8 participants. Contact us for details.

ACCOMMODATIONS: Tour accommodations vary from simple to luxury hotels. Nearly all accommodations have private bath with hot water showers. Each detailed tour itinerary provides information about the specific accommodations for that tour. Tours usually stay in the best accommodations available, except in large cities where nice hotels are available without paying five star prices.

TOUR DOCUMENTS: Argentina does not require a visa for Americans or many other nationalities. Please contact your nearest Argentine consulate or us for more information.

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